New investigation uncovers startling exploitation of workers in 'Shein village': 'It violates basic human rights'

The price of each piece of clothing from fast-fashion megabrand Shein might be low — yet new investigations by BBC show that the true cost is much higher.

What's happening?

BBC traveled to the "Shein village," a neighborhood in Guangzhou, China, where thousands of factories churn out cheap clothing day and night. And based on its description, it's a sensory overload.

"The buildings have been hollowed out to make way for sewing machines, rolls of fabric, and bags brimming with cloth scraps," according to BBC. "The doors to their basements are always open for the seemingly endless cycle of deliveries and collections."

But the real concern — which has attracted increased attention from the international community — is the hours, pay, and working conditions for the millions of employees powering the brand's success.

"If there are 31 days in a month, I will work 31 days," one worker said to BBC.

Reporters found that an average Shein factory employee works around 75 hours a week, nearly double the 44-hour limit set by Chinese labor laws. This is because the basic pay rate — without overtime — is well below the minimum livable wage, meaning employees seek overtime as much as possible.

"It's clear that it's illegal and it violates basic human rights," said David Hachfield of the Asia Floor Wage Alliance. "It's an extreme form of exploitation, and this needs to be visible."

Why is fast fashion so controversial?

This is hardly the first time Shein has been criticized for its dubious labor conditions. Last year, BBC reported that the brand admitted to having children working in several of its Chinese factories.

Additionally, much of the cotton Shein uses is rumored to be sourced from Xinjiang, a region that's been wracked with scandal after allegations of forced labor by the Muslim Uyghur minority.

What should the government do about the fast fashion industry? Set strict regulations 🚫 Incentivize sustainable options 💰 Use both regulations and incentives 🏛️ Nothing 🙅 Click your choice to see results and speak your mind.

Other than human exploitation, many opponents of fast fashion point out that it wreaks havoc on the environment. The endless cycle of production generates staggering amounts of pollution and textile waste — not to mention the emissions worldwide shipping generates.

What's being done to hold Shein accountable?

Watchdog groups and international governments are keeping a close eye on Shein, especially as the company is rumored to be preparing for an IPO on the London Stock Exchange, BBC reported.

Many consumers are also becoming more aware of the human and environmental impact of their clothing purchases and making changes accordingly. 
In their efforts to break up with fast fashion, more and more shoppers are buying secondhand instead.

In fact, resale as a retail category is expected to more than double by 2028, growing nearly seven times faster than broader retail, based on research from online reseller ThredUp.

Join our free newsletter for good news and useful tips, and don't miss this cool list of easy ways to help yourself while helping the planet.