Biotech firm SMEY is developing what it calls the world's first lab-grown oils, specifically oils mimicking shea, coconut, and palm. The timing is impeccable, as Europe is planning on enforcing stricter laws around imports linked to deforestation, according to EuroNews, and further reported in Interesting Engineering.
SMEY, a Paris-based start-up, has announced that it can produce both cosmetic and food-grade oils without ever touching a tree. As a bonus, it can reduce an 18 to 24-month cycle down to roughly 30 days. SMEY is promoting its product as a deforestation-free alternative to manufacturers that is also traceable, ethical, and vegan.
The E.U.'s new laws, to be put into effect in December 2025, will enforce fines of up to 4% on non-compliant imports, which is encouraging brands to look for more cost-effective and ethical alternatives.
SMEY's approach uses a library of 1,000 non-GMO yeast strains, which are then fed into a machine-learning system that will produce a similar lipid profile to the needed oil. Once the machine learns the profile, it can be adapted and optimized without genetic modification.
Founder Viktor Sartakov-Korzhov told Euronews Green, "This combination shortens the R&D … cycle … allowing us to develop oils that are consistent, traceable, and tailored to each application."
SMEY also adds that its oils can reduce the impact that harvesting oils in the forests causes, such as habitat loss, chemical use in the soil, exploited labor from both humans and animals, and deforestation. The ability to produce high-quality oils without the need to touch the environment would be a huge win for sustainability in the beauty industry.
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Palm oil is one of the most controversial oils in production as it's responsible for one-third (3 million hectares) of Indonesia's loss of old-growth forest over the last 20 years. When palm oil plantations infringe on tropical forests, they threaten species including elephants, orangutans, rhinos, and tigers. The biodiversity loss has also worsened the air quality for citizens, according to the Stockholm Environment Institute.
Coconut oil is tied to animal exploitation in Thailand. Its high demand for coconuts, which earns Thailand roughly $400 million every year, as reported by the Berkeley Political Review, is possible mainly due to animal slaves. Monkeys are chained to trees and forced to spend long hours picking coconuts to meet the industry demand.
Sartakov-Korzhov mentioned that the technology would localize supply and potentially create new formulations with longer shelf life and stability.
SMEY's goals are to focus on North America and Europe before expanding into other hubs. Before any primary production, SMEY must pass all performance and regulatory bars and be able to perform the same or better than the oils they replace.
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Sartakov-Korzhov estimated the timeline for the oils to hit the market varies depending on the type. Cocoa butter is expected to face a few years of approvals within Europe, and palm oil is expected to take around three years.
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