Prato, a historic Italian city known for its luxury textiles, has been transformed in recent decades by a wave of Chinese immigration. Once a hub of traditional craft-based garment making, Prato has become one of Europe's most prominent fast fashion centers — and with it, a flashpoint for debates over labor rights, cultural identity, and environmental costs.
By 2021, more than 27,000 Chinese residents — about 15% of the population — were living in Prato, according to DW. Many came seeking opportunity in the booming textile trade.
"At that time, Europe seemed like paradise," Li Qiu, a migrant from Zhejiang province who arrived in 2007, said in an interview with DW. Like many others, she began as a textile worker before saving enough to open her own restaurant.
But the dream has soured for many. The industry, built on long hours and low pay, has been marred by tragedies like the 2013 factory fire that killed seven Chinese workers.
According to reporting from DW, local unions such as Sudd Cobas have said that some textile employees in Prato labor up to 84 hours a week for as little as €800 ($926) per month. Organized crime has also targeted the sector, with violent disputes erupting over control of garment transport and distribution.
Meanwhile, critics question whether garments produced under these conditions — sometimes with Chinese fabrics but sewn in Italy — should be allowed to carry the coveted "Made in Italy" label. The rules, which only require the final significant transformation to take place domestically, leave room for controversy.
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Beyond labor concerns, Prato's story reflects the broader environmental toll of fast fashion. According to the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE), the fashion industry is responsible for approximately 10% of the world's total heat-trapping carbon pollution, making it one of the most polluting sectors globally.
The sector also produces about 20% of global wastewater, highlighting its significant impact on water quality and resources.
Despite the challenges, many migrants have built permanent lives in Italy.
"Integration should be two-way," said Chinese documentary artist Zheng Ningyuan, who has studied the Prato community for years, to DW.
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For many second-generation immigrants, Italy often feels more like home than China, even as they navigate between two cultures, according to Zheng.
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