A disheartening exclusive look at a clothing factory may make the case for the fashion sector to say goodbye to certain technologies, instead reviving ancient techniques that multiple industries are adopting in their own ways to address climate and environmental issues.
Melanie DiSalvo (@alookbehindtheseams), an expert fashion and supply chain consultant and entrepreneur, recently shared an Instagram video detailing how industrial sewing machines operate. Unfortunately, it comes with some unexpected waste.
"There is so much that goes on behind the scenes of factories that even industry professionals don't know about," DiSalvo explains, showing a piece of light blue-gray fabric with an out-of-place white stripe that will eventually be clipped away and discarded.
"When you start knitting a sweater panel, the machine needs a little bit of time to get going," DiSalvo says. The solution? Protect expensive materials, such as wool and cashmere, by instead feeding the machine low-quality fabrics at the outset.
"What factories do instead is they start the machine off with a cheap poly yarn. This gives the machine time to stabilize," DiSalvo adds. "This way, when the good yarns are added in, there aren't any quality issues."
According to DiSalvo, even though the white pieces of poly yarn are removed and discarded, this practice helps ensure the final product has a longer shelf life, keeping it out of landfills longer. However, the entrepreneur couldn't help but highlight the incredible amount of waste.
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"If [people] knew about all the manufacturing waste they never see, they would lose it," DiSalvo wrote in the caption, adding that the poly pieces of fabric are typically not reused because of their size.
According to Earth.org, more than 100 million tons of textile waste are sent to dumps every year. It is unclear if that figure accounts for scraps of fabric seen in the Instagram reel. Furthermore, around 10% of cancer-linked microplastics in our oceans are from cheap textiles such as nylon and polyester.
The clip showcases how a lot of the waste polluting our planet starts right at the manufacturer, which may feel overwhelming for consumers wanting to help Mother Earth. Fortunately, there are plenty of brands making waves in the sustainability sphere.
For example, Purified founder Will Verona is revolutionizing what it means to be a circular brand, using both ancient and new techniques to manufacture a plastic-free, toxin-free shoe that adds nutrients to the soil at the end of its life. The free app Commons also makes it easy for shoppers to live more sustainably and get rewarded in return.
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Meanwhile, a burgeoning secondhand market is providing thrifters with high-quality cult-favorite finds, making it easier than ever to say goodbye to fast fashion and reduce material waste from the production of new items.
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