France's most famous sparkling wine is being shaped by a troubling new reality. Grapes are ripening so quickly because of rising heat in the region that Champagne producers are beginning harvests in mid-August, a schedule growers say once would have seemed nearly impossible.
In a region built on tradition, the record-early harvest shows how heat and drought are pushing one of the world's most recognizable agricultural products onto a new calendar.
Here's what to know
After hot, dry weather sped up ripening, Champagne growers worked through a tight picking window to protect fruit quality, according to the Associated Press.
The outlet reported that Champagne's official harvest opened from Aug. 12 to Aug. 17 depending on the area and grape variety, putting the season about a month ahead of what used to be typical in the region. In Hautvillers, where the vineyard slopes are part of a UNESCO World Heritage landscape, crews started work at 6:30 a.m.
"It's historic in Champagne," Alexandre Gobillard, production director at the Gobillard & Fils Champagne house, told the AP.
A fourth-generation member of the family business, Gobillard has worked at the estate for 30 years. His company cultivates about 100 acres of vines and produces around 1.5 million bottles annually, the outlet said.
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More background
The AP reported that the growing season accelerated when mild weather triggered budburst; a late-March frost then hit the vines and cut into the expected crop.
Gobillard told the outlet that came before four heat waves, which he described as unprecedented.
In some vineyards, sun exposure browned grapes, complicated decisions about when to pick them and how to preserve quality in a region where timing is critical.
To adapt, growers are harvesting earlier and sending crews into the fields during cooler morning hours to protect both workers and fruit.
Instead of relying on the old seasonal rhythm, the region is now reacting to frost, heat, and drought. While harvests used to be concentrated in late September and early October, the timeline has shifted significantly over the last few decades.
"I've been working at the estate for 30 years, and when I started, my father used to tell me, 'On Aug. 15, go on vacation.' Today, it's Aug. 18 and we're in full harvest. We've never seen anything like it," Gobillard told the AP.
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