A chainmail maker on TikTok is calling out what they say is a shoddy imitation sold by an unnamed U.K. alternative fashion brand.
Their critique struck a nerve with viewers who are tired of paying premium prices for accessories that only look handmade.
Here's what to know
Bad Times Designs (@shopbadtimes) said the product marketed as chainmail either mimicked the look of real maille or was hand-assembled under unfairly low pay.
As the creator put it in the caption, "Fast fashion is and always will be bad quality."
@shopbadtimes Fast fashion is and always will be bad quality. The nature of fast fashion is to cut corners and use cheap materials to get things out quickly. This might ruffle some feathers because this brand is (or was) beloved in the UK alt community but this is just awful. I've purposely left their name out of this because I don't want to put a target on my back, but iykyk. You cannot make real chainmail with a machine so this is either made to look like maille (ie the figure of 8 "rings") or someone is being severely underpaid to do it by hand. There are thousands of real maillers out there who make good quality jewellery for a range of budgets. Don't waste your money on fast fashion when you can get something bespoke for the same price. Not only will you be happier with the end result but that money will go directly towards supporting an independent artist, not funnelled off so a faceless CEO who couldn't give less of a shit about you. Be smart 🫶 Ty to @Black Hearts Jewellery for posting this on their story the other day! #chainmail #fastfashion #fastfashionsucks #alternativejewellery #chainmailjewellery ♬ original sound - 𝖇𝖆𝖉 𝖙𝖎𝖒𝖊𝖘 ✶
Their critique in the TikTok post focused mainly on how the item was built.
"You cannot make real chainmail with a machine so this is either made to look like maille (ie the figure of 8 'rings') or someone is being severely underpaid to do it by hand," the creator wrote.
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One commenter wrote, "The fast fashion brands ability/audacity to overprice their trash made in questionable working conditions and with crap materials above quality artisan pieces is to be investigated."
Rather than buying from fast-fashion labels, the creator urged viewers to consider independent makers, saying, "There are thousands of real maillers out there who make good quality jewellery for a range of budgets."
More background
At its core, fast fashion is built around getting large quantities of inexpensive merchandise to market quickly, often using low-cost metals, flimsy clasps, rough finishing, and handmade-looking designs that do not deliver handmade quality.
That business model also carries serious environmental and human costs.
The overproduction of cheap clothing and accessories can contribute to water contamination from dye and chemical runoff, air pollution from manufacturing and shipping, and massive amounts of waste when items tarnish, snap, or fall apart and are discarded.
It can also rely on exploitative labor practices, especially when intricate-looking pieces are sold at prices that do not seem to reflect the time or skill needed to make them.
If the accessory was not a machine-made imitation, the other possibility is that someone assembled it manually for far too little pay.
Cheaply made fashion tends to wear out quickly, meaning shoppers often have to replace it more often — turning what seems like a budget purchase into a recurring expense.
What can be done?
For shoppers who like alternative fashion, one of the most practical moves is to buy fewer pieces and buy better ones.
Jewelry from independent makers can sometimes fall in the same general price range as fast-fashion trend items while offering sturdier materials and workmanship that holds up longer.
It also helps to look closely at product details before buying.
Material descriptions, clasp quality, close-up photos, and clear information about who made the piece can reveal a lot. If a listing is vague and the item looks mass-produced despite being marketed as artisanal, that can be a warning sign.
Buying secondhand is another way to avoid feeding the fast-fashion churn while still finding distinctive styles.
The creator also emphasized that buying from independent sellers sends more of the money to the people who actually made the piece, rather than having it "funnelled off so a faceless CEO who couldn't give less of a shit about you," as the creator wrote.
Where can I learn more?
These articles get at the same issues raised in the TikTok critique. Trend-driven fashion can mask shoddy construction and labor issues, while the fallout often falls on workers, shoppers, and the environment.
• Investigations into H&M and other major labels uncovered widespread labor abuse across supply chains.
• Fast-fashion brands have been accused of underpaying workers as little as 4 cents per garment.
• Vans customers have complained that the quality is garbage when basics fall apart almost immediately.
That's why suspiciously cheap "handmade-looking" accessories are worth a closer look. The shortcuts that make a piece feel flimsy can also point to bigger problems behind the scenes.
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