A growing number of fashion labels are selling clothing meant to be worn in several different ways, marketing the items as multiple outfits for the price of one.
Some critics argue the concept overstates the environmental benefit of "multi-way" fashion, particularly now that fast-fashion companies are getting in on the idea.
What's happening?
Brands such as BUCI NYC, Isabella Vrana, Damson Madder, and SAUV are promoting reconfigurable garments — including dresses that can shift between mini and midi lengths, tops intended to be worn backward and forward, adjustable necklines, and reversible knitwear — as a practical, lower-waste way to fill out one's wardrobe, the Guardian reported.
If one garment can serve as two or three looks, some think shoppers could be less likely to overconsume. Emily Chan, senior sustainability and features editor at British Vogue, told the Guardian the concept is worth celebrating "if it encourages people to style their garments in different ways, get more wear out of them, and keep them for longer."
But Fashion Revolution co-founder Orsola De Castro told the publication that the sustainability argument breaks down when the concept becomes another retail hook. "Sustainability-wise, they have absolutely zero merit. They don't discourage [consumers] from buying new things."
The trend has also reached bigger, more trend-driven sellers, like fast-fashion giant ASOS, that aren't concerned with sustainability so much as attracting more sales on the coattails of an eco-friendly idea.
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Why does it matter?
The criticism comes as the fashion industry faces growing scrutiny over harms tied to mass-producing cheap clothing, with links to water contamination from dyeing and textile treatment, air pollution from manufacturing and shipping, and labor systems that often depend on underpaid garment workers toiling in unsafe conditions.
Poorly made clothing constructed with cheap materials tends to lose shape, pill, rip, or fade quickly, pushing shoppers to replace items more often. This can negate what initially look like lower prices for consumers while contributing to waste overall.
Critics of framing multi-way fashion as a green solution say features such as detachable sleeves and adjustable necklines do little on their own to address those problems. Versatility means less if the clothing is still being produced and sold as disposable.
As Chan told the Guardian, "If clothes are treated as throwaway items and not made with the environment or garment workers in mind, it's not a sustainable choice."
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What can I do?
Multi-way garments are more likely to replace a combination of purchases when they are durable, comfortable, and actually worn repeatedly. However, most such items on the market simply have extra components such as alternate sleeves or matching add-ons.
Meanwhile, shoppers can actually participate in the trend of expanding clothing use without buying anything at all. Restyling clothes already in one's closet, shopping secondhand, repairing damaged pieces, and prioritizing quality over quantity can all help a wardrobe last longer.
De Castro noted that people have been finding new ways to wear what they already own for years. At the end of the day, materials, construction, and labor practices still determine whether an item is the greener choice.
As De Castro put it, "It is a gimmick; just an added layer that makes you consider the longevity of your clothing but doesn't necessarily dictate your behaviour."
Chan added, "If clothes are treated as throwaway items … it's not a sustainable choice."
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