Scientists recreate legendary golden sea silk, once linked to emperors and popes, from shellfish waste

Golden sea silk, once linked to emperors and popes, could be making a comeback in a greener form.

A research team in South Korea says discarded shellfish fibers can be turned into a modern version of the storied material, ScienceDaily reported.

What happened?

In a study published in Advanced Materials, researchers led by Professor Dong Soo Hwang of POSTECH and Professor Jimin Choi of the Environmental Research Institute used byssus from the pen shell, Atrina pectinata, to create a golden fiber reminiscent of historic sea silk. The species is already farmed in Korean coastal waters.

Historic sea silk was spun from the byssus threads of Pinna nobilis, a large clam native to the Mediterranean. Romans valued it for its shiny golden color, low weight, and durability, and over time, it came to symbolize wealth, power, and religious importance.

Why does it matter?

Today, that traditional material is all but gone. Pollution and other environmental damage have driven Pinna nobilis toward extinction, the European Union has completely banned its harvest, and only a small number of artisans still make authentic sea silk in tiny amounts.

According to the South Korean team, the byssus threads from pen shells are a promising alternative because they closely resemble those of the endangered Mediterranean clam in both their physical and chemical characteristics.

What's being done?

The work gives a new use to a marine material that has largely been ignored. Byssus fibers from pen shells are usually discarded, but the researchers developed a way to turn them into a fiber that resembles ancient sea silk.

It could also help preserve part of a lost cultural tradition without further straining fragile marine ecosystems.

"Structurally colored textiles are inherently resistant to fading," Hwang said. "Our technology enables long-lasting color without the use of dyes or metals, opening new possibilities for sustainable fashion and advanced materials."

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